As I finished DIM Love body customization for my Natalie I discovered that DollShe oriental skintone is too dark for it. So I recreated the faceup on DollShe fresh head, with some alterations. I tried to copy the eyebrows, though the rest of faceup is much lighter in person due to a skintone difference. Still, it’s the same Natalie. She turned out younger though, and I’m so happy about the result.
I cut off the upper eyelids a bit, so the eyelashes have more room, and deepened the mouth corners.
Whispering Grass Natalie is a BJD head sculpted by me and casted at DollShe craft.
I bought a DIM love body for my Natalie, and it’s a great body (otherwise I wouldn’t choose it) but I had to do a plenty of mods to it.
DIM body is on the left, i-Doll body is on the right for the comparison purpose, as i-Doll is a nice realistic body, but it’s just too big for the character I have in mind.
“Before” photo is on the left, “after” is on the right.
The most noticeable mods:
- additional pieces inserted into the shoulders to make them wider,
- the breasts are made more flat and hanging down,
- knee-thigh area is refined to create some muscle shape there.
There are a plenty of less noticeable mods, lot of them are internal, both subtractive and additive with use of Apoxie Sculpt. I promise to make a full mod chart as I did for FacoDoll before: http://ira-scargeear.tumblr.com/post/63538594412
I’m waiting for ImplDoll heeled feet now to complete the body, because my lady needs a pretty heeled shoes.
Also it looks like I need to paint another Natalie head in DollShe fresh instead of oriental, for a better skintone match.
Do you like a new proportions and shapes?
Some sunset photos again.
We had a massive rain today.
Another set of sunset photos from today.
Shot with Canon EOS 100D and Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50 f/1.8. Looks like this lens will be my main lens despite it’s manual.
The “Flash on dolls”-guide.
Having a cheap camera is no excuse for making bad pictures. You CAN make good pictures with a simple point and click camera too, you don’t need a expensive DSLR.
So you want to make a quick picture of your doll(s) in the evening/nighttime and in your room? Don’t turn the flash off. The picture will get grainy and yellowish (and probably shaky) - but don’t just shot and click.
Hold a mirror in front of the flash - and make sure that its close enough, otherwise you’ll get one really light area and lots of dark on your picture.
The mirror will redirect the flashlight and let it bounce of your room walls - which leads to softer light that direct lightning. And voila, better picture!
You may need to play a bit around with angles of the mirror - different angles of course lead to different lightning. And of course.. .the closer you are to the wall, the lighter the redirected light. I don’t have experience with colored wall or rooms with little to no free wall, you need to test that ;)
Tag me along if anyone tests it :D I hope the guide is useful.
I used this method for years until I bought a Canon 100D that has a great matrix. It really helps in a poor light condition and gives a soft shades. I managed to control the light by adjusting the mirror angle and position against the flash.
Some flowers near my home.
milly-dean said: Do you use monster clay? I'm buying some very soon and I'd love to know peoples's opinions of it.
I haven’t done a ton of work (okay, truthfully, only one dragon bust using some of a very generous sample I received from the manufacturer a few years back) in Monster Clay, but I definitely plan to in the future; it’s got many properties that make it superior to other oil-based/plasticine-style clays.
It doesn’t stick to tools and skin the way some of the Chavant varieties I’ve used do. It also warms up quickly with body heat, but then just as quickly firms up again once it cools just a little. It takes sculpting tools very nicely, and sticks to itself. If you’ve ever used Chavant, you’ll know that that brand doesn’t always stick to itself very well, which can be endlessly frustrating if you are attempting to do additive sculpture. Monster Clay also sticks nicely to armature wire.
I have about seven and a half pounds of it now, just waiting for future, larger size projects that will eventually finish as limited-run resin and bronze pieces.
Like Chavant and other oil/wax-based sculpting media, you will need to make molds of whatever you sculpted in Monster Clay if you want to end up with a permanent finished piece that can take paint or patina. I’m sure you already knew that, but I didn’t want to assume. :)
http://missmonstermel.tumblr.com (Missmostermel) has sculpted many phenomenal masks and dolls using monster clay, and I’d wager she also has a great deal of experience with the molding/casting side of things. I’m not exaggerating one bit when I say that Mel is one of my art heroes. I’m guessing you already follow her Tumblr, but if not, I recommend it!
Sorry for the long post, but the TLDR version is:
Though I have limited experience with it, I like Monster Clay a great deal and recommend it to any sculptor/aspiring sculptor eager to try it out. It has some terrific properties that make it superior to other oil/wax clays in many ways. Just know that if you want to take your Monster Clay sculpts to the point where you can paint them, you’ll need to make molds. But molds can mean editions, which are definitely the way to go if you want to make a career of the art thing.
Thanks for the ask, and sorry for the novel you received in return. Hope it helps, and I hope you end up liking Monster Clay as much as I do!
Good luck and happy sculpting!